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Engagement Ring Anatomy: Complete Guide to Ring Parts & Terminology (2025)
December 1st, 2025
Understanding Ring Anatomy: Why it Matters
Being proposed to with an engagement ring is one of the most important moments in one’s life. You want to make sure you choose the right ring for your significant other, especially since they are made to be worn forever. From the research to the jewelry store visits, finding the right one is a rewarding yet challenging experience. Buying an engagement ring is an adventure, at the Wedding Ring Shop, we do everything we can to make the adventure romantic and unforgettable.
During your shopping journey, it is essential to know all the terms that jewelers, goldsmiths, and gemologists use. This centuries-old art form takes from a large body of knowledge and expertise. Some terms are scientific and technical, while others are more culturally oriented. Regardless, you should know all of your options when purchasing an engagement ring. This list should inform you of all the terms and definitions jewelers use. However, don’t hesitate to call our Honolulu jewelry store to talk more in depth about the parts that make up your engagement ring.
Diamond Terms
Blemish: Visible flaws on a polished diamond’s surface, including scratches, abrasions, and nicks.
Branded diamond/cut: Patented cutting style, such as Hearts On Fire’s “Most Perfectly Cut Diamond.”
Brilliant cut: Diamond cut with a plethora of facets used to facilitate light reflection. The round cut is the most classic and popular.
Brilliance: Brightness and radiance emitted from a diamond’s center.
Four C’s: Four diamond grading guidelines used by Gemological Institute of America
- Carat (c or ct): The weight of a gemstone, not to be confused with karats. A carat is equal to 200 milligrams.
- Clarity: Lack of internal or external flaws, sometimes called “inclusions” or “blemishes”
- Color: The absence of color in a diamond, ranges from “D” (colorless) to “Z” (yellow or brown.)
- Cut: Accuracy and precision that styles the stone into certain guidelines. The cut has less to do with the physical shape and more to do with how the facets reflect light.
Crown: The diamond’s facets around the top. Located above the girdle.
Culet: The flat bottom of a diamond where the lower facets meet. Sometimes used to give the diamond some more structure.
Eye Clean: Describes gemstones with no visible flaws. Some flaws may still be found under a magnifying glass.
Face/Table Up: When the diamond’s crown and table face towards the viewer, as in most engagement rings.
Face/Table Down: The inverse of face/table up, when the diamond’s pavilion is positioned outward.
Facet: Polished sides cut into a diamond.
Fancy Shape: Anything other than a round diamond, such as emerald, oval, or pear-shaped diamonds.
Fire: Color flashes from a polished diamond.
Flawless: Diamonds lacking any flaws, even when viewed under a magnifying glass.
Fluorescence: Light visible when viewed under ultraviolet (UV) light.
Girdle: A diamond’s outer edge, determines the silhouette.
Inclusion: Flaws inside a polished diamond, can be seen through a stone’s facets.
Kimberley Process: Certification that ensures diamonds are ethically sourced and conflict-free.
Laboratory-grown: Diamonds created in a laboratory, as compared to natural-mined.
Loupe: Magnifying glass used by gemologists.
Melee: Trade term describing tiny diamonds that weigh 0.2 carats. They are often used in side stone settings.
Pavilion: Facets below the diamond’s girdle.
Plot: A plot is a diagram that shows the clarity of a diamond. Typically found with a diamond certification, a plot diagram shows characteristics such as diamond inclusions, facet arrangements, and blemishes.
Princess Cut: Marketing and colloquial term for “square modified brilliant diamond.” It has a square shape which, when viewed from the side, resembles an inverted pyramid.
Proportions: Relationship between angles and measurements of a diamond, such as the width of a pear cut diamond.
Scintillation: The play of light and shadow in a diamond when rocked back and forth.
Shape: A diamond’s silhouette, such as those found in oval, cushion, or round cut diamonds.
Simulants: Alternative gemstones used to mimic diamonds, such as cubic zirconia.
Table: The outermost flat surface on a cut.
Diamond Setting Terms:
Accent stones: Small diamonds set in the band beside the center stone.
Bezel: Setting for a diamond that surrounds the stone in the band’s precious metal.
Cathedral: An engagement ring setting that features 2 arches that slope up either side of the center stone.
Channel: This setting is usually used as side accents or on wedding bands. Channels set a line of diamonds in a crease in the band, appearing as if it's between two strips of metal.
Halo: A layer of diamonds that surrounds the center stone.
- Hidden halo: A variation wherein the center stone rests on the halo, making it exclusively visible from the side profile.
Pavé: Commonly used as an accent, pavé is a line of diamonds. It is named after the French word for cobblestones. There are a few varieties of pavé.
- French Pavé: Diamonds are set in v-shaped grooves cut into the band.
- Micropavé: Tiny diamond paves, usually stacked on top of each other for a spectacular display.
Three Stone: The center diamond is flanked by two accessory stones, usually other diamonds. They can be in all varieties of cuts and shapes.
Engagement Ring Terms
Band: The precious metal circle in which the diamonds are set.
Bridge: The bridge is a setting where the main stone sits high held by a metal structure spanning the top of the band, often times creating a noticeable gap between the gem's base and wearer's finger. Perfect for maximizing light and sparkle for the center stone, but holds the increased risk of snagging on fabrics and potential for the ring to spin if top-heavy. A bridge can feature intricate open metalwork. Bridges provide the wearer with the opportunity for hidden details with the underside of the bridge being an ideal and discreet spo for personal engravings or the setting of a secret signature gem.
Center stone: Diamond located at the center of the engagement ring. If there are other stones in the ring, the center stone is almost always the largest and most prominent. Most typically you purchase the engagement ring setting and select the center stone. Most popular center stones include diamond, sapphire, moissanite, and colored gemstones. Center stones shapes include round, princess, oval, emerald, cushion, marquise, pear, asscher, radiant, and heart. Center stones are typically measured by carat weight and physical dimmension. The most typical carat weight for an engagement ring in the U.S. is 1.0 and 1.5 carats. The center stone weight differs from total carat weight as center stone weight will tell you what the weight of the center stone is versus all stones on the ring.
Gallery: The gallery is made up of the metalwork and space located directly beneath the center stone. This part of the ring can be customized for both design and performance. This section can serve as a canvas for intricate design and details, like a modern hidden halo of diamonds tucked just beneath the main stone, or more classic embellishments like detailed filigree and scrollwork. You can add peek-a-boo or surprise stones set into the side walls for a unique touch. The design of the gallery can effect how center stone performs in achieving the ultimate brilliance, fire, and sparkle.
Head/Crown: The head/crown is the component that holds the main gemstone. Variations include basket head (used for a lower, protected profile), peg head (soldered for a higher profile and maximum brilliance), trellis head (interwoven prongs), tulip head (petal-shaped prongs for an organic look), low set head (for security and practicality), and high set head (to elevate the stone). The head/crown will directly dictate the stone's height, its level of protection, light exposure, and overall visual presentation.
Millgrain: Tiny metal beading is used to create a more versatile silhouette, commonly used in vintage rings.
Profile: The silhouette or shape of a ring, especially when viewed from certain angles.
Prong / Claws: Setting for gemstones where the jewel is held secure via small metal spikes or bars. It allows the jewel to be viewed from all angles and is, by far, the most common gemstone setting. A few common prong styles include the four prong (the most common type of prong), six prong (typically used for larger 1ct+ stones), double prongs (most popular for cusion/emerald cut diamonds), claw prongs (which feature tapered points), v-prongs (great for vulnerable corners), diamond-tipped prongs, round prongs vs. flat prongs, eagle claw prongs. Prong orientation can also be set diagonally or int he compass direction (North, South, East, West), with the latter giving a more square appearance. Note that a key trade-off with selecting the prong style is the number or width of prongs (more prongs/larger prongs for more security) can reduce the visibility of the stone, which can potentially diminish light entry. Due to the exposed nature of the prong style, prongs can require periodic maintenence and repairs. Have your prongs checked routinely for tightness and re-tip over time as they can loosen or wear down.
Setting: Refers to how the center and accessory diamonds are set or mounted in a band.
Shank: This is the front-facing part of the ring that holds the center stone, as well as other details and add-ons. There are many varieties of shanks that instill a distinctive look into the piece. Shank styles include the traditional/classic highlighted by the perfectly round band which maintains a consistent width and curve around the finger. The Euro Style, which features a slightly flattend bottom edge. Perfect in preventing the ring from spinning on the finger. The Cathedral is distinguished by sides that arch gracefully upward, framing the center stone setting like the arches of a cathedral (adding height and prominence). Straight shank, which maintains a uniform width from the base all the way to the head of the ring. Tapered shank is known for its distinct narrowing as it approaches the center stone, making the mains tone appear larger. The reverse tapered widens as it gets to the center stone, giving you a more substantial and bold frame. Knife edges where the center of the band is raised to a sharp peak, or V-shape, rather than being rounded. Split shanks seperate into two or more strands as it nears the center stone. Bypass shanks have the ends of the bands not meet at the center setting but instead cross over or wrap around the main stone. Swirl shank is similar in the bypass, but the band forms a soft, continious spiral or curve leading up to the center setting. Criss-cross shank feature strands of the metal band crossing over each other multiple times. The twisted/rope shank is formed by two or more metal strands braided or twisted together. The width range of the shank typically falls between 1.5mm and 3mm or more.
Shoulders: The upper shank part of the band that rises from the base and connects to the head, holding the main setting. It primarily serves as support for the head and contributes to the overall structural integrity of the ring. Often times the shoulder is where accent stones are placed and can feature on a variety of width variations.
Solitaire: Engagement ring that lacks accessory or accent diamonds.
Side stone: Accent or accessory diamonds set in the shank surrounding the center stone.
Precious Metal Terms
Alloy: A material made through the combination of multiple hard metals, such as copper, silver, or gold.
Copper: While not often used by itself in modern fine jewelry, it is frequently used to strengthen other metals. Copper is hypoallergenic but tarnishes easily.
Gold: Naturally yellow, this element is the base of many precious metals used in jewelry.
- Rose Gold: Its red-pink hue comes from the use of copper in the alloy.
- White Gold: An alloy made with gold and other metals such as palladium and copper. Eventually coated with rhodium.
- Yellow Gold: While gold is inherently this color, this term separates it from other alloys.
Karat: Measurement used to describe the purity of gold. For example, 24k gold is pure. Not to be confused with carats (used for diamonds) or carrots (used for snacks). Sometimes abbreviated as kt.
Nickel: Another metal used to reinforce precious metals, nickel isn’t hypoallergenic like copper is. It can cause allergic reactions in some people.
Platinum: Among the most valuable and luxurious materials, platinum is rarely made into an alloy due to its natural strength.
Rhodium: Sometimes used to add a radiant sparkle to a piece and is frequently used in white gold. Jewelry with rhodium plating should be taken to a jeweler to be redipped, or else the gold’s natural yellow may shine through.
Sterling Silver: An alloy made with 92.5% fine silver and 7.5% other metals, especially copper. Not often used in engagement rings.
Find Your Engagement Ring at the Wedding Ring Shop
At The Wedding Ring Shop, you will find a boundless variety of engagement rings. Our marvelous selection showcases many of today’s top designer brands, ensuring that every visitor finds their dream piece in our Honolulu jewelry store. We also offer diamonds perfectly suited to be the center stone that represents your romance. At our store, we only employ the most highly skilled experts so as to guarantee that our entire inventory is of peerless quality. Contact us on our website to schedule a personalized appointment, or call us anytime at (808) 945-7766 for all the answers to any of your questions.
Engagement Ring Terminology FAQ
- Q: What are the parts of a ring called?
A: The main parts include the center stone, head/crown, prongs, gallery, bridge, shoulders, shank/band, sizing area, and hallmark. Each component plays a specific role in the ring's structure and appearance. - Q: What holds a stone in place on a ring?
A: Stones are typically held by prongs (small metal claws) or a bezel setting (metal rim). Prongs allow more light but require maintenance, while bezels offer maximum security. - Q: What is the top part of a ring called?
A: The top is called the "head" or "crown." It's the part that holds the center stone and includes the prongs or bezel. - Q: What is the part of a ring that goes around your finger?
A: This is called the "shank" or "band." It's the circular metal portion that wraps around your finger. - Q: What are the side diamonds on a ring called?
A: Small diamonds flanking the center stone are "side stones," while tiny diamonds along the band are "accent stones" or "pavé diamonds." - Q: What is a ring without a stone called?
A: A ring without a stone is simply called a "band" – like a wedding band or stacking band. - Q: What's the difference between side stones and accent stones?
A: Side stones are larger stones flanking the center stone (like in three-stone rings). Accent stones are smaller diamonds set along the band for added sparkle. - Q: What is the gallery of a ring?
A: The gallery is the space beneath the center stone, visible from the side. It can be plain or decorated with scrollwork, stones, or hidden design elements. - Q: What is a split shank?
A: A split shank is when the band divides into two as it approaches the center stone, creating a more substantial and dramatic look. - Q: What does cathedral setting mean?
A: A cathedral setting features arched sides (like cathedral architecture) that elevate and support the center stone, visible from the side profile. - Q: What is milgrain on a ring?
A: Milgrain is a decorative technique using tiny metal beads to create a detailed, vintage-inspired edge along the setting or band. - Q: What is filigree?
A: Filigree is intricate metalwork featuring delicate scrolls and swirls, commonly found on vintage-inspired ring galleries and shanks. - Q: How many prongs should an engagement ring have?
A: Most rings have 4-6 prongs. Four prongs show more of the stone, while six prongs offer more security, especially for stones over 1 carat. - Q: What is a hidden halo?
A: A hidden halo is a ring of small diamonds beneath the center stone, invisible from above but adding sparkle from side angles. - Q: What is a high profile vs. low profile ring?
A: High profile rings elevate the stone prominently above the finger. Low profile rings sit closer to the finger for a more subtle, secure design. - Q: What is the sizing area on a ring?
A: The sizing area is the bottom portion of the shank (around 5-7 o'clock position) where jewelers add or remove metal to resize the ring. - Q: What do ring hallmarks mean?
A: Hallmarks are stamps inside the band indicating metal type and purity (like 14K, 18K, PT for platinum, or 925 for sterling silver). - Q: What is a bezel setting?
A: A bezel setting uses a metal rim to completely (or partially) surround the stone, offering maximum security and a sleek, modern look. - Q: What are V-prongs?
A: V-prongs are shaped like the letter V and protect vulnerable corners on stones like princess cuts, pears, and marquise diamonds. - Q: What is an east-west setting?
A: An east-west setting places the center stone horizontally (sideways) on the band instead of vertically, creating a modern, unique look.
About the Author
Michael A. Han is the President and Founder of The Wedding Ring Shop in Honolulu, Hawai‘i. With over 40 years of fine jewelry expertise, Michael has guided the store to become one of Hawaii’s most trusted destinations for engagement rings, wedding bands, and custom diamond jewelry. His passion for craftsmanship and personalized service reflects The Wedding Ring Shop’s core values of quality, integrity, and aloha—helping every couple find a ring that tells their unique love story.Michael A. Han is the President and Founder of The Wedding Ring Shop in Honolulu, Hawai‘i. With over 40 years of fine jewelry expertise, Michael has guided the store to become one of Hawaii’s most trusted destinations for engagement rings, wedding bands, and custom diamond jewelry. His passion for craftsmanship and personalized service reflects The Wedding Ring Shop’s core values of quality, integrity, and aloha—helping every couple find a ring that tells their unique love story.